南方澳港邊，一尾鹽烤鯖魚的海味時間 / Harbor Hours in Nanfang'ao with a Salt-Grilled Mackerel

這是一條沿著公開資料與影像想像的南方澳散步路線，不是親自到訪紀錄。如果有一個不趕時間的下午，我想先爬到廟埕高處看一眼漁港，再沿著碼頭慢慢走，把心思留給一尾鹽烤鯖魚。等天色暗下來，最後停在跨港大橋的燈光前。

This is an imagined Nanfang'ao walk based on public information and images, not a first-hand visit. On an unhurried afternoon, I would first climb to a temple courtyard to look over the fishing port, then wander along the docks and save my attention for a salt-grilled mackerel. As the sky darkens, the walk would end in front of the lights of the harbor bridge.

南天宮高處｜屋脊上的龍彷彿也在看港裡的船。／ Above Nantian Temple｜The roof dragons seem to be watching the boats in the harbor, too.

先從高處，把漁港看清楚 / See the Harbor from Above First

南方澳位在宜蘭蘇澳，是臺灣三大漁港之一，港區由三座漁港組成。南天宮面向漁港，以純金打造的「金媽祖」和玉石雕成的「玉媽祖」聞名。從廟的高處往下看，色彩濃烈的剪黏屋脊和密密排著的漁船疊在一起，信仰與生計好像就在同一個畫面裡。

Nanfang'ao, in Su'ao Township, Yilan, is one of Taiwan's three major fishing ports, and its harbor area is made up of three fishing harbors. Nantian Temple faces the port and is known for a Mazu statue made of pure gold and another carved from jade. Looking down from the temple's heights, the vivid cut-tile roof ornaments overlap with rows of moored fishing boats, as if faith and livelihood share a single frame.

一尾被叫作「花飛」的魚 / A Fish Locals Call "Hua-hui"

南方澳常被稱為「鯖魚的故鄉」，當地俗稱鯖魚為「花飛」。從1997年起，這裡幾乎每年秋天都舉辦鯖魚節，把漁獲、廟會與小吃串在一起。我想像中的這一餐很單純：一尾抹了薄鹽、直接上火的鯖魚，不用醬汁搶戲。

Nanfang'ao is often called "the hometown of mackerel," and locals call the fish hua-hui. Since 1997, a mackerel festival has been held here in most autumns, tying together the catch, temple festivities and snacks. The meal I imagine is simple: a whole mackerel brushed with a little salt and put straight over the fire, with no sauce stealing the show.

料理示意｜魚皮起泡、焦斑剛好，油脂在網上輕輕作響。原照拍攝地點並非南方澳。
Food illustration｜Blistered skin, just enough char, and fat sizzling softly on the rack. The source photo was not taken in Nanfang'ao.

料理拆解：鹽烤鯖魚 / Technique: Salt-Grilled Mackerel

感官：好的鹽烤鯖魚，魚皮會鼓起小泡、邊緣帶一點焦香，筷子一撥，裡面的肉仍是濕潤成片，油脂帶著海味在嘴裡化開。手法（從口感推想）：先薄薄抹鹽靜置一會兒，讓表面滲出一些水分，再擦乾後以皮面朝火、中大火烤到上色，再翻面烤熟。

Senses: a good salt-grilled mackerel has skin that puffs into small blisters with a lightly charred edge; nudge it with chopsticks and the flesh beneath still flakes moist, its oil melting with a taste of the sea. Method (inferred from texture): brush the fish with a thin layer of salt and let it rest so some surface moisture draws out, pat it dry, grill skin-side toward the heat over medium-high until colored, then turn to finish cooking.

效果：鹽讓魚肉稍微緊實、也帶出鮮味；表面擦乾後比較容易烤出脆皮，而不是悶出水來。鯖魚本身油脂豐富，烤的時候油會從皮下滲出、幫忙把表面烤香，所以不太需要額外加油。這是一般料理原理的拆解，不是任何店家的配方。

Effect: salt firms the flesh slightly and brings out its savoriness; a dry surface crisps instead of steaming. Mackerel is naturally rich in oil, which seeps out from under the skin during grilling and helps toast the surface, so little extra oil is needed. This explains general cooking principles, not any shop's recipe.

家常小提示（在家可試）：用烤箱或平底鍋都可以，關鍵是先把魚擦乾，皮面先下、不要急著翻動，等魚皮自然離鍋再翻。旁邊放一點白蘿蔔泥或檸檬，能讓油脂吃起來更清爽。

Home tip (worth trying): an oven or a frying pan both work. The key is drying the fish first, starting skin-side down, and resisting the urge to move it until the skin releases on its own. A little grated daikon or a squeeze of lemon on the side keeps the richness feeling fresh.

碼頭步道｜纜繩、繫船柱和一排白色船身，把腳步自然放慢。／ Dockside path｜Ropes, bollards and a row of white hulls slow the steps on their own.

吃完，沿著船身慢慢走 / After Eating, Walk Slowly Along the Hulls

吃完魚，不必馬上找下一站。沿著碼頭走，船身上的纜繩、桅杆上的小旗和背後的青山，都是可以慢慢看的東西。漁港的節奏和城市不同，船出海、回港都看天與海，散步的人也跟著鬆下來。

After the fish, there is no need to rush to the next stop. Walking along the dock, the mooring ropes, the small flags on the masts and the green hills behind are all things to take in slowly. A fishing port keeps a different rhythm from a city; boats go out and come back according to the sky and sea, and anyone strolling here loosens up along with them.

跨港大橋｜燈光落在水面，拉成一條條溫暖的光。／ The harbor bridge｜Its lights fall on the water and stretch into warm ribbons.

在燈光前收尾 / Ending in Front of the Lights

舊的南方澳跨港大橋在2019年10月1日斷裂，造成死傷；重建後的新橋在2022年12月18日通車，設計以鯖魚為意象，一大一小象徵大魚入港、小魚回到海洋。夜裡看著燈光倒映在水上，很難不想起這座港和鯖魚之間的關係，也想起漁獲要能長久，海要先被好好對待。

The old Nanfang'ao harbor bridge collapsed on October 1, 2019, causing deaths and injuries; the rebuilt bridge opened to traffic on December 18, 2022. Its design draws on mackerel, with a large and a small fish symbolizing big fish coming into port and young fish returning to the sea. Watching its lights reflected on the water at night, it is hard not to think about how closely this port is tied to mackerel, and that a lasting catch begins with treating the sea well.

回頭想這一天：廟脊上的龍、烤網上起泡的魚皮、水面上一條條的燈光。小幸福大概就是這樣，一尾簡單烤好的魚，和一段願意慢慢走的港邊路。

Looking back on the day: the dragons on the temple roof, the blistered skin on the grill, the ribbons of light on the water. A small happiness may be just this—one simply grilled fish, and a stretch of harbor road worth walking slowly.

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圖片來源、授權與改作揭露 / Image Sources, Licenses, and Adaptation Disclosure

1. 〈自南方澳南天宮高處望向南方澳漁港〉，攝影：othree（2010），CC BY 2.0。以 AI 轉為溫暖手繪動畫風，保留廟脊、漁港與構圖。／ “View toward the Nanfang'ao Fishing Port from Nanfangao Nantian Temple,” photo by othree (2010), CC BY 2.0. AI-adapted into a warm hand-painted animation style, keeping the temple roof, harbor and composition.
2. 〈Grilled mackerel on a BBQ〉，攝影：Kernow Skies（2024），CC BY-SA 3.0。拍攝地點非南方澳，僅作料理示意。以 AI 轉為溫暖手繪動畫風；本改作依相同授權方式（CC BY-SA 3.0）分享。／ “Grilled mackerel on a BBQ,” photo by Kernow Skies (2024), CC BY-SA 3.0. Not taken in Nanfang'ao; used only to illustrate the dish. AI-adapted into a warm hand-painted animation style and shared under the same license (CC BY-SA 3.0).
3. 〈2022 Nanfang'ao Fishing Port i〉，攝影：Taiwankengo（2022），CC BY-SA 4.0。以 AI 轉為溫暖手繪動畫風；本改作依相同授權方式（CC BY-SA 4.0）分享。／ “2022 Nanfang'ao Fishing Port i,” photo by Taiwankengo (2022), CC BY-SA 4.0. AI-adapted into a warm hand-painted animation style and shared under the same license (CC BY-SA 4.0).
4. 〈2023 Nanfangao Bridge〉，攝影：Taiwankengo（2023），CC BY-SA 4.0。以 AI 轉為溫暖手繪動畫風並裁切左側；本改作依相同授權方式（CC BY-SA 4.0）分享。／ “2023 Nanfangao Bridge,” photo by Taiwankengo (2023), CC BY-SA 4.0. AI-adapted into a warm hand-painted animation style and cropped on the left; shared under the same license (CC BY-SA 4.0).

本文依公開資料與影像撰寫，沒有宣稱作者親自到訪或用餐；料理手法為一般原理的推想，不是店家配方。所有主圖都是不同作者、不同時間拍攝之授權原照的 AI 改作，不是同一次走訪的現場實拍。參考資料：蘇澳區漁會、交通部觀光署、中央社（2022/12/18 大橋通車報導）。／ This post is based on public information and images and does not claim a first-hand visit or meal; the cooking method is inferred from general principles, not a shop recipe. Every main image is an AI adaptation of licensed photos taken by different photographers at different times, not photos from a single visit. References: Su'ao Fishermen's Association, Taiwan Tourism Administration, and CNA (report on the bridge opening, Dec. 18, 2022).