在水里,大觀電廠下的二坪冰棒與車站邊木桶便當香 / In Shuili: Popsicles Beneath Guandian Power Plant, and Station-Side Bento Fragrance
昨天在集集龍泉車站,我聽了百年苦楝樹的風聲,吃了古早味枝仔冰;今天清晨再次上車,沿著集集支線往最上游的方向駛去,終點是水里。列車離開綠色隧道後,山勢漸深,溪谷的霧氣開始在車窗外升起,濁水溪的上游就在前方慢慢展開。 Yesterday at Jiji's Longquan halt, I listened to the wind through century-old chinaberry trees and ate an old-style popsicle. This morning I board the train again, riding the Jiji Line toward its uppermost reaches, the final stop: Shuili. After the green tunnel, the mountains deepen and valley mist begins to rise outside the window—the upper Zhuoshui River unfolds slowly ahead. 水里車站沒有繁複的站房,只有一座木月台與鄰側的老街;便當香氣從木桶裡漫出,與柴油列車的鳴笛一同在山間飄散。(宮崎駿/吉卜力手繪動畫風格改編) Shuili Station has no grand station building—just a wooden platform and the old street beside it; bento aroma rises from the wooden buckets, mingling with the diesel train's whistle in the mountains. (Studio Ghibli style watercolor illustration.) 水里車站是集集線的終點,也是一個不需要趕時間的地方。月台邊的老街安靜得像一幅舊畫,幾家賣便當的小店將熱氣騰騰的木桶擺在門口,裡面是紅燒肉、滷蛋與時令蔬菜,米飯的香氣與木頭的氣息一起飄在空氣中。沒有招牌爭搶注意,只有鐵軌與老屋共同的節奏。 Shuili Station is the end of the Jiji ...